Water Heaters
Central Services offers replacement gas water heaters and electric water heaters for residential homes. We are very careful when removing your old water heater. Our installation team will take the necessary steps to protect your property.
Contact our office for information on pricing, specials and warranty information.
Get your Water Heater before it gets you…
FACT: Water heater failures are one of the top five sources of residential water losses. Most of these losses resulted from a slow leak or a sudden burst and cost an average of $4,444 in addition to the insurance deductible.
FACT: The average age at which a water heater fails is 10.7 years.
Frequently Asked Questions:
When should I replace my water heater?
That depends on several different factors. Your water heater should be tested for Carbon Monoxide. If you see any signs of leaking water, rust on the tank of your water heater or fails a Carbon Monoxide test you should have your water heater replaced as soon as possible. Other indications would include lack of hot water and unusual noises and/or smells.
Is a drain pan necessary?
A water heater should be placed in an area that will prevent damage to floors, ceilings, and furniture if the heater leaks. When this is not possible, a drain pan should be installed under the water heater. Since a typical drain pan doesn't hold that much water, it must have a pipe to a drain or other outlet for the water. When installed properly, a drain pan and pipe could keep any leakage under control and protect your belongings from water damage.
What type of maintenance should I do on my water heater?
Bradford White always recommends that you contact a plumbing professional to perform any maintenance or repairs to your water heater – from periodic checks on the anode rod to ensuring that all connections are secure. Recommendations for maintenance are in your Installation and Operation manual. However, there are a few things that you can do:
- Ensure that there are no sources of flammable vapors in the same area as your water heater (this includes gasoline, heating oils, lighter fluid, propane, etc.).
- Keep the top of the water heater clean. If you notice water dripping on the water heater from any piping, contact a plumbing professional to have the leak repaired.
- Keep the space around your water heater clean and free of dirt, boxes, paint cans, aerosol cans, household cleaners and trash. It is important to keep the heater accessible for proper operation and easy maintenance.
What is the difference between the Hydrojet® and other cold water inlet tubes?
Unlike a conventional dip tube where the water exits with weak diffusing action, water exits the Hydrojet® system in complete turbulence. This turbulence provides more efficient mixing, yielding the following benefits:
- Water heaters with the Hydrojet® system don't have to work as hard or as often to maintain a maximum supply of hot water at the desired temperature.
- The resulting decrease in energy consumption saves you money.
- The turbulent action also puts sediment (lime, minerals) into suspension, cleaning the tank of harmful deposits every time there's a call for hot water.
Why doesn't my old water heater make as much hot water as it used to?
You might have sediment buildup in your tank. As water heaters age, they tend to accumulate sediment and lime deposits. If the heaters are not cleaned periodically, the sediment may rise to a level that will act as a barrier between the burner and the water, making it harder to heat. An article published in a national ASPE plumbing journal states: for every half inch of sediment on the bottom of a gas fired water heater, it requires 70% more fuel to heat the water.
Why does my water smell like rotten eggs?
The combined presence of hydrogen, sulfur, and bacteria cause foul smelling water. The magnesium anode rod installed in the tank protects the tank surface but generates enough hydrogen to create an odor when it interacts with sulfur in the water or bacteria in the tank. Replacing the magnesium anode rod with an aluminum anode may minimize the problem. The most efficient method of eliminating the hydrogen sulfide odor is to control the bacteria. As a rule, chlorination of public water supplies kills the bacteria, but some private well systems may need to be purified by the use of chlorine injectors or ultraviolet light. This will destroy the bacteria.
If my water heater was in a flood, do I need to replace it?
Yes. The Air-Conditioning, Heating and Refrigeration Institute (AHRI) recommends that any flood-damaged heating and cooling equipment be replaced, not repaired. From the AHRI website, as it pertains to water heaters:
"Whether your water heater is gas-fired, oil-fired or electric, if it was exposed to flood water, the unit should be replaced.
In a gas unit, valves and controls will likely corrode. In an electric unit, the thermostat and controls will likely corrode. In both types, the insulation surrounding the unit will be contaminated and will be nearly impossible to disinfect. Additionally, the insulation would take a long time to dry, leading to corrosion of the tank from the outside.
Even if water heater components have been cleaned and the unit seems to operate properly, parts may corrode in the future. Both gas and electric water heaters have a pressure relief valve that can corrode and stick after being exposed to flood water. Be sure, therefore, to replace this valve as well."
(Taken from www.ahrinet.org)
At the suggestion of AHRI, be sure to have your inspection and replacement work performed by a qualified professional.
Where is the "anode rod" and what does it do?
For most water heaters, the anode rod is attached to the hot water outlet of the water heater. If you are facing the front of the water heater (where the labels are), the hot water outlet is on the left hand side. The anode rod is often referred to as a "sacrificial rod".
Most water is rarely "pure". It can contain oxygen, magnesium, fluoride, chlorine and suspended particles. These components, in the concentrations in your water, are usually not bad for you. However, they do contribute to the taste and smell of the water. They also impart a slight conductivity to the water. Through an electrical process called electrolysis, this conductivity will eventually (over a long period of time) cause most metal to rust or corrode. When the water is heated, this electrical process can be accelerated.
Most water heaters are made of a steel tank with a porcelain enamel (glass) lining. However, due to production and assembly methods, it is not always possible to completely cover the inside of the tank. Therefore it's important to provide metal that can be consumed by the electrical process. This is where the sacrificial anode rod comes in. By acting as a lightning rod for the corrosion process, the anode rod draws the harmful electrolytic process away from the water heater tank and focuses the corrosion on the anode rod. Even though the Bradford White manufacturing process is the best in the industry, our water heaters need this sacrificial anode rod to ensure that the electrolysis doesn't affect the tanks.
Helpful Links:
There is a variety of different sizes and efficiencies to choose from:
Electric Water Heaters
- 40 Gallon Electric Water Heater
- 50 Gallon Electric Water Heater
- 66 Gallon Electric Water Heater
- 80 Gallon Electric Water Heater
Gas Fueled Water Heaters
- 40 Gallon Atmospheric Water Heater
- 50 Gallon Atmospheric Water Heater
- 75 Gallon Atmospheric Water Heater
- 40 Gallon Power Vent Water Heater
- 50 Gallon Power Vent Water Heater
- 75 Gallon Power Vent Water Heater
- 100 Gallon Power Vent Water Heater
***Gas Line: Accessible Line Tested for Leaks, Carbon Monoxide: Testing for Low Level CO2 during furnace operation, Safety Switches: Each safety switch will be tested for proper operation, Air Flow: Technician will ensure that furnace is receiving the required air flow for efficient and proper operation.





